Used Car Checklist: What to Check When Buying a Used Car

Buying a used car is one of the biggest purchases most people make outside of a house. Getting it wrong can cost thousands. This used car checklist walks you through everything you should check — from free online history checks you can do from your sofa, to the physical inspection and test drive on the day, to the paperwork that must be right before you hand over any money.

Part 1: Online History Checks (Before You Visit)

Before you even see the car in person, run these used car checks before buying to filter out problem vehicles early:

Free Checks You Can Do Right Now

1. MOT history check — Review every MOT result, defect and advisory since the car was first tested. Look for recurring faults, dangerous/major failures, and any gaps in testing.
2. Mileage verification — Compare the odometer reading in the advert against the MOT mileage trail. The readings should increase steadily each year. A drop or plateau is a clocking red flag.
3. Tax status — Confirm whether the vehicle is currently taxed or SORN. Remember, tax does not transfer — you must tax the car before driving it away.
4. Vehicle details — Check the make, model, colour, engine size and fuel type match the advert. Discrepancies can indicate a cloned or misrepresented vehicle.
5. Recall check — See if there are any outstanding manufacturer safety recalls. These are repaired free at any franchised dealer.

Paid Checks (Recommended for Vehicles Over £3,000)

6. Outstanding finance — Around one in three used cars has unpaid finance. If you buy one, the finance company can repossess it regardless of whether you knew.
7. Stolen vehicle check — Queries the Police National Computer. If a car you buy turns out to be stolen, you lose both the car and your money.
8. Insurance write-off check — Reveals whether the car was previously written off (Category S or N). Legitimate if disclosed, but massively reduces value.
9. Plate change history — Shows if the registration has been changed, which can sometimes be used to hide a vehicle’s past.

Part 2: Physical Inspection Checklist

When you go to view the car, work through this checklist for used car inspection methodically. Do not let the seller rush you.

Exterior

• Bodywork — Walk around the car slowly. Look for dents, scratches, rust bubbles, mismatched paint colours and uneven panel gaps. Misaligned panels often indicate previous accident repair.
• Glass — Check windscreen for chips and cracks. Small chips can often be repaired, but cracks in the driver’s line of sight are an MOT failure.
• Tyres — Check tread depth on all four tyres (legal minimum is 1.6mm, but below 3mm needs replacing soon). Look for uneven wear which can indicate alignment or suspension issues.
• Lights — Test all lights: headlights (dipped and main beam), indicators, brake lights, reversing lights, fog lights and number plate lights.
• Underneath — If possible, look under the car for oil leaks, rust on the sills and subframe, and any obvious damage to the exhaust or suspension components.

Engine Bay

• Oil level and condition — Pull the dipstick. Oil should be between the markers and a translucent brown colour. Black sludge suggests poor maintenance; milky residue can indicate a head gasket problem.
• Coolant — Check the expansion tank. The coolant should be clean and at the correct level. Brown or oily coolant is another head gasket warning sign.
• Belts and hoses — Look for cracked, perished or loose belts and hoses. Ask when the cambelt/timing chain was last replaced if applicable.
• Battery — Check for corrosion on terminals. A very new battery on an older car might suggest the original battery kept dying due to an electrical fault.

Interior

• Seats and upholstery — Check for excessive wear, tears, stains and damp. A strong air freshener smell can be masking damp or smoke damage.
• Dashboard warning lights — Turn the ignition on but don’t start the engine. All warning lights should illuminate, then go out when you start it. Missing lights may have been deliberately disconnected.
• Electrics — Test every electric feature: windows, mirrors, central locking, air conditioning/climate control, heated seats, sat nav, radio, USB ports.
• Boot — Check for water ingress, lift the carpet to check for rust or a spare tyre/inflation kit.

Part 3: Test Drive Checklist

A test drive of at least 15–20 minutes on a mix of roads is essential. You are checking for:

• Cold start — The engine should start promptly without excessive cranking, smoke or unusual noise. Ask to start it yourself from cold.
• Gearbox — Manual: gears should engage smoothly without crunching. Automatic: shifts should be smooth with no jerking, slipping or hesitation.
• Clutch — (Manual only) It should bite roughly in the middle of pedal travel. A very high bite point suggests wear.
• Brakes — Should stop the car straight without pulling to one side, squealing or vibrating.
• Steering — Should be smooth and responsive. Pulling to one side, vibration at speed, or a loose feel indicate alignment or suspension issues.
• Suspension — Drive over speed bumps and uneven surfaces. Listen for knocking, clunking or rattling which suggest worn bushes, drop links or shock absorbers.
• Engine performance — Accelerate firmly through the rev range. There should be no misfires, flat spots, excessive smoke from the exhaust, or warning lights.
• Noise — Turn the radio off. Listen for wind noise (indicates poor window seals), road noise (worn tyres or wheel bearings), and any rattles or squeaks.

Part 4: Paperwork Checklist

Before completing the purchase, verify these documents:

• V5C (logbook) — Must be the original document (not a photocopy). Check the name and address match the seller. The V5C reference number should match DVLA records. Note: the V5C is not proof of ownership, only proof of registered keeper.
• Service history — A stamped service book or invoices showing regular servicing adds value and confidence. Check that the mileage figures in service records align with the MOT mileage trail.
• MOT certificate — Verify the current MOT expiry date. You can cross-reference this against the free MOT history check.
• HPI/finance check receipt — If the seller says the car is finance-free, ask to see proof. Better still, run your own check.
• Spare key — Most cars come with two keys. A missing spare key can cost £200–£500 to replace for modern vehicles with immobiliser chips.

Used Car Checklist Summary

Frequently Asked Questions